How to Zero Your Rifle From Scratch

A practical guide for hunters who want confidence before heading into the hills.

Zeroing your rifle is one of the most important jobs you can do before a hunt. It is not just about getting bullets “somewhere near” the centre of a target. It is about knowing exactly where your rifle is shooting, confirming that your scope and ammunition are working together, and building confidence in the system before you rely on it in the field.

A rifle that is not properly zeroed can lead to missed opportunities, wounded animals, wasted ammunition, and poor decision-making under pressure. The good news is that zeroing a rifle from scratch is not complicated, provided you take your time and work methodically.

This guide walks through the process from the beginning.

What Does “Zeroing” a Rifle Mean?

Zeroing means adjusting your rifle sights or scope so the bullet impacts where you are aiming at a chosen distance.

For example, if you choose a 100 metre zero, your goal is for the bullet to hit the centre of the target when your crosshair is held on the centre at 100 metres.

It sounds simple, but several factors affect where a bullet lands, including:

• Rifle setup
• Ammunition type
• Scope height
• Barrel condition
• Shooter position
• Trigger control
• Wind
• Distance
• Temperature
• Bullet weight and velocity

The aim of zeroing is to remove as much guesswork as possible.

Before You Start: Safety First

Before you handle or fire any rifle, make safety your first priority.

• Always treat the rifle as loaded.
• Keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.
• Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot.
• Know what is behind your target.
• Use a proper range, safe backstop, or approved private shooting area.
• Follow all local firearms laws and range rules.

Never rush the process. Zeroing requires calm, controlled shooting. If you are tired, distracted, or frustrated, stop and come back to it later.

What You Need

Before heading to the range or safe shooting area, make sure you have:

• Your rifle
• The scope already mounted securely
• The ammunition you intend to hunt with
• A solid shooting rest, bags, bipod, or bench setup
• Targets with a clear aiming point
• Hearing and eye protection
• A screwdriver or turret tool if your scope requires one
• A notebook or phone for recording adjustments
• A cleaning kit, if needed
• A spotting scope or binoculars
• A safe backstop

Use the same ammunition you plan to hunt with. Different brands, bullet weights, and projectile types can shoot to different points of impact, even from the same rifle.

Step 1: Check the Rifle and Scope Setup

Before firing, check that everything is physically secure.

Look over:

• Scope rings
• Scope base
• Action screws
• Bipod or sling attachments
• Suppressor or muzzle brake, if fitted
• Magazine fitment
• Stock and barrel clearance

A loose scope mount can make zeroing nearly impossible. If your rifle is grouping all over the place, the issue may not be you. It may be the setup.

Also check that the scope is sitting comfortably for your eye relief and that the reticle is level. A poorly mounted scope can create problems later, especially at longer distances.

Step 2: Bore Sight the Rifle

Bore sighting gets the rifle roughly aligned before you start firing live rounds. It does not replace zeroing, but it can save ammunition.

With a bolt-action rifle, remove the bolt and place the rifle securely on a rest. Look through the barrel from the rear and centre the target in the bore. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope and adjust the crosshair until it is also centred on the same target.

For other rifle types, you may need a laser bore sighter or help from a gunsmith or range officer.

Start close. A 25 metre target is a good starting point if you are zeroing from scratch. It makes it easier to get on paper and confirm that your rifle is shooting in a safe and predictable direction.

Step 3: Fire Your First Group at 25 Metres

Do not fire one shot and immediately start chasing it around the target.

Fire a controlled three-shot group from a steady position. Focus on consistency:

• Same cheek weld
• Same shoulder pressure
• Same grip
• Same breathing rhythm
• Smooth trigger press
• Follow through after the shot

Once you have fired three shots, make the rifle safe and check the target.

You are looking for the centre of the group, not one individual shot. A single shot can be affected by shooter error, wind, barrel condition, or slight inconsistencies. A group tells you more.

Step 4: Adjust the Scope

Most rifle scopes adjust in either MOA or MRAD/MIL. The turret markings will tell you how much each click moves the point of impact.

Common examples:

• ¼ MOA per click means each click moves impact about 7mm at 100 metres, or about 1.8mm at 25 metres
• 0.1 MIL per click means each click moves impact about 10mm at 100 metres, or about 2.5mm at 25 metres.

At 25 metres, adjustments appear smaller because the target is closer. That means it may take more clicks than expected to move the group.

Important: adjust the scope in the direction you want the bullet impact to move.

• If your group is low, dial up.
• If your group is right, dial left.

Make the adjustment, then fire another three-shot group to confirm.

Step 5: Move to 100 Metres

Once your rifle is roughly centred at 25 metres, move the target to 100 metres.

Now repeat the same process:

1. Set up a stable shooting position.
2. Fire a three-shot group.
3. Measure the centre of the group.
4. Adjust the scope.
5. Fire another group to confirm.

Do not rush. Let the barrel cool if needed, especially with lightweight hunting rifles. Thin barrels can heat quickly, which may shift point of impact or open up groups.

Step 6: Choose Your Zero Distance

For most New Zealand hunting rifles, a 100 metre zero is a sensible starting point. It is simple, easy to confirm, and gives you a clean reference for understanding bullet drop at longer distances.

Some hunters prefer a 200 metre zero, especially in open country. That can work well, but only if you understand your rifle’s trajectory and confirm it properly at distance.

A good practical approach is:

• Zero at 100 metres.
• Confirm your drops at 200 metres and beyond.
• Build a simple dope chart or ballistic reference for your rifle and ammunition.

Do not rely only on a ballistic app. Use it as a guide, then confirm with live fire where safe and legal.

Step 7: Confirm With the Rifle Set Up as You Will Hunt

Once you have a clean bench zero, confirm the rifle in a realistic hunting setup.

That means shooting with:

• Your suppressor fitted, if you hunt with one
• Your bipod or pack rest
• Your hunting ammunition
• Your normal sling
• Your normal scope magnification
• Your normal field positions

Bench shooting is useful for zeroing, but animals are rarely taken from a perfect bench. You need to know where the rifle shoots from positions you will actually use.

Try confirming from:

• Prone
• Sitting
• Kneeling
• Off a pack
• Off sticks
• A natural hill or field rest, where safe

The aim is not to show off. The aim is to discover your real-world limits.

Step 8: Record Your Results

Write down:

• Rifle
• Scope
• Ammunition brand
• Bullet weight
• Zero distance
• Date
• Weather conditions
• Group size
• Confirmed drops at longer distances
• Any changes made to turrets

This becomes especially useful if you change ammunition, remove and refit a scope, add a suppressor, or notice a shift later.

A simple note like “100m zero, 143gr ELD-X, suppressor fitted, 3-shot group 28mm” gives you a reliable reference.

Step 9: Check Zero Before Every Serious Hunt

You do not need to fully re-zero your rifle before every trip, but you should confirm it before any important hunt.

Rifles get knocked. Scopes lose zero. Mounts loosen. Ammunition changes. Travel can shift things.

A quick confirmation group before a hunt can save a lot of disappointment later.

Common Zeroing Mistakes

Chasing Single Shots

Do not adjust after every single shot unless you are doing a very deliberate one-shot correction with a known rifle and stable setup. For most hunters, three-shot groups are more reliable.

Using Different Ammunition

Zero with the ammunition you intend to use. Changing bullet weight or brand can shift impact significantly.

Poor Shooting Position

If your shooting position is unstable, you are not zeroing the rifle. You are measuring your wobble.

Overheating the Barrel

Light hunting barrels heat quickly. Let the rifle cool between groups if the barrel becomes hot.

Ignoring Wind

Wind can move bullets, especially at longer distances. Try to zero in calm conditions if possible.

Loose Scope Mounts

If the rifle will not group consistently, check the mounts before blaming the rifle or ammunition.

Expecting Perfect Groups

A hunting rifle does not need to shoot one-hole groups to be effective. It does need to shoot consistently enough for the distances you intend to hunt.

Final Thoughts

Zeroing your rifle is not just a mechanical task. It is part of becoming a responsible hunter.

A properly zeroed rifle gives you confidence. More importantly, it helps you make better decisions in the field. You know where your rifle shoots, you know your limits, and you are less likely to take a shot you should not take.

Take your time. Use good ammunition. Shoot from a stable position. Confirm your results. Then practise from realistic hunting positions.

The goal is simple: when the time comes, your rifle should put the bullet exactly where you expect it to go.